Don't Judge a Pattern by its Cover!

I'm in LOVE and who knew where it would be hiding?

V1141 is out of print, BUT still on Vogue's website AND a PR friend told me that occasionally their OOP's go on sale for $1.99!! I was able to snag this from a friend but you may want to watch for it for a buck 99!

Part of the stuffy ensemble below is this adorable knit top that will absolutely become my new T-N-TEE. I want to make one out of every color in my palette! I love it and everything about it. Little cap sleeve, forward shoulder with pleats, a little gathering at bust level both front and back, beautiful neckline...I simply love every aspect of the LOOK and the FIT is even better!

Seriously...who could look past all this wool to even notice this darling top?? Thankfully, I was able to stop dressing like this back in the 80's:

I have paired it with a sarong skirt from Butterick 4526 which is actually a bathing suit cover up that I stitched up the side to secure the wrap and was made from a 1 yard remnant of ITY knit. This is your basic 2 hour wonder...30 minutes for the skirt and an hour and a half for the top! Rotary cutter and serger...boom!

Okay...be brutally honest. Does this outfit look like it cost.....eh...I would guess $5.00...$7 on the high side?

My next order of business, after laminating with fusible interfacing to preserve it forever, is to draft a sleeve for my new T-N-TEE so it will be ready for fall.  Already bought the fabric for it!

Forever in Blue Jeans

When I was growing up not only were Levi's the only jeans available, they were MEN'S Levi's. Women's jeans were yet to be a glimmer in Gloria Vanderbilt's eye.

Levi's were sized by hip (actually men's waist size) and length.  There was a little leather tag at the waist that had your size on it for everyone to see. My size was 30-30. Why do I remember these things?

I recently told my sister I want to be buried in my favorite jeans. Morbid? I don't think so...I just want to be comfortable on the ride home!

I made Jalie 2908 and I finally understand what all the hype is about. Making your own awesome fitting jeans is pretty darn cool. This pattern has been reviewed to death so I won't bore everyone with that and will simply brag on my accomplishment and post some pics. Making your own jeans really does make you feel smart! And accomplished. I was intimidated by the whole process but took Jennifer Stern's Blueprint to Blue Jeans class on Pattern Review and taking it bit by bit it was actually very simple.

Side view and fit

Pocket stitching copied from favorite Jag jeans. Of course, I HAD to add something orange on the outside so this will be my signature "Levi's" tag!

Oak leaf brass button and inside waistband. Rivets will arrive tomorrow!

Inside pockets and fly shield...Swiss cotton (yum!)

I only have one potentially valuable tip I posted on my PR regarding fly zipper construction that might be helpful if you plan to make a pair. I'll be making MANY more!

Luxurious Stretch Silk Georgette

What a treat to sew on this beautiful stretch silk I got from Roz at Sew Much Fabric! I simply love this Burda wrap top and know it will become a repeater. March 2012 issue top number #121A.

Cute as pie and twice as easy! I did double the length of the tie ends...I had enough fabric and I wanted them to wrap around several times. This is a tiny little top...I won't be wearing it without a cami!

More details on Pattern Review.

One Last Time...

I said I wasn't going to get on the Maxi train since I wore them the first time back in the 70's...but I decided to go ahead and sew my Maxi Swan Song...or maybe that's sing not sew...whatever...I took the plunge again some 40 years later. 

Anyway, V8808 caught my eye...I liked the cutaway shoulders and standing collar. I had this wild print that needed a home so...back to the 70's it is:

I knew the slim cut of this bodice would require an FBA...

...so I cheated and did an interesting Lazy Girl FBA that I describe in my Pattern Review.

This was a fun project...and easy as pie!

Sorry these pictures are all crooked...I'm not even drinking...dunno.

I think I may be a little old for the trend this time around...maybe back fat is the tipping point...no pun.

Pete and Repeat were in a boat...

Pete fell out and who was left? Repeat.

Burda Style Magazine 05/2012 #105 Tie Front Blouse...Worth repeating:

I love this top! I've had people stop me at the grocery to say how cute it is...and I especially love it made with this adorable marigold print fabric from Roz at Sew Much Fabric...

This is a simple top to make and so much fun to wear...try it!

My complete review can be seen here.

One Pattern, Many Looks

I love this blouse! The pleats at the shoulder and semi-Mandarin collar add interesting detail. I do believe it was a good candidate for the One Pattern, Many Looks contest. I'm not sure which is my favorite, the cream eyelet or the the Asian evening rendition. The green is okay, too...I think I lost my love for it when I spent so much time trying to get the slippery fabric to behave. I made it to go with the M6567 mock-wrap ruffled skirt which I reviewed recently. Here is the blouse:

This cream eyelet I got from Roz at Sew Much Fabric, a fabulous online fabric store right here in my own backyard!

I bought two other beautiful fabrics from her shop, as well, that will NOT stay in my stash long!

Roz was referred to me by Claire, from PR, whom I came to know better when I was a lucky winner of one of her seam allowance curve tools, an ingenious invention for tracing and adding seam allowances all in one step. Thanks, Claire! Two new and super cool sewing colleagues right here in the Lone Star State!

The cotton eyelet from Sew Much Fabric is SO sweet, I had never seen an eyelet design quite like this:

The Asian inspired fabric was very seductive, too!

A blend of polyester and nylon which was a new one for me. Frayed like all get-out so serging all edges was the first rattle out of the box. Since crossing one front across the other produced an angle, I pictured frog closures along there (the front is actually secured with snaps on the inside) and I think it made the top:

As is typical with Burda, the instructions for this blouse provide a few scratch-your-head moments. Check out my tips on PR if you plan to make this cute blouse. I am now on my merry way to something else now but happy to have these 3. And, this cute pattern will  definitely be a TNT summer blouse for moi!

Please let me know which one you like best!!

I love it but I'm happy it's over!

This is Vogue 1297 and although I love the way it turned out it was a nightmare in the making. My review on PR is thorough so I'm not repeating it here but just wanted to add a few additional comments and pics.

Most of this dress was cut on the cross grain and I chose what I discovered was a totally unsuitable knit because of its tiny rib. In the picture below the green straw is sitting on a seam that took in the hip gusset. All of the fabric to the right of the straw was completely unnecessary:

After that alteration I ended up with a hip that fit:

Lastly, the cross grain on the layer underneath the pocket made it droop out at the hem. I had to take a huge wedge shaped bite out of each side to alleviate this:

I do love the end result, though. And I know I am famous for repeating patterns over and over but I'm parking this one in a handicapped space for the time being! 

Why I Love Orange

This is my second entry in the Natural Fibers Contest. I didn't really plan on making a second entry but I spotted this ORANGE print and saw that it was 100% cotton. I had to have it anyway, so might as well enter another garment, right?

Many have reviewed this pattern before me and I did not read them all so this may have been mentioned...the only major insight that I found was in the ruffles. If gathered as patterned they would have been VERY skimpy. I doubled the length and mine might look as full as those on the pattern envelope.

I also have to add that my ruffle inspiration is Sarah of Goodbye Valentino whose gorgeous ruffled creations make all of us want to be more feminine. If you haven't seen her blog, you much check it out.

So, without further ado, here is my review from PR:

Pattern Description: Misses top with trim variations. Separate patterns included for B, C and D cup sizes.
Pattern Sizing:
4-12 I made a 12D
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy for the view I made (E).
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: the ruffles! Like Cissy, I was inspired by Goodbye Valentino's beautiful ruffled garments. Also, the simplicity of a simple pattern with lots of cute variations. I would have disliked the fullness of the ruffle had I used the pattern as given. More on that in changes below.
Fabric Used:
100% cotton for entry in the Natural Fibers Contest.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I did take the waist in about 2" on each side to give it a little shape. The main change I made was on the ruffle. I did several test runs with my ruffler and found that using the lengths given in the pattern I would never have achieved as full a ruffle as pictured on the pattern envelope. I doubled the length of the ruffle fabric and used most all of that on my shirt. Using the pattern as given the ruffle would have been really skimpy. This pattern has been reviewed a lot so this may have been mentioned...I did not read all of them. There is a close up of my ruffle here.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might lengthen it to a dress. If I do I will scoop out the neckline a little bit. Definitely recommend if you haven't made it yet.
Conclusion:
Cute, easy pattern resulting in a fun top. And it's orange...how bad could it be?

 Okay, so here's the reason that I love orange...

When I was 5 years old my mom put me in charge of making the biggest decision of my young life.

We were living in Webster Groves, MO and I was starting kindergarten. There was an afternoon class and there was a morning class. She absolutely didn't care which one I chose. Can you imagine the weight of a decision like that on the shoulders of a little kid? (Smart mom...early training for real life.)

Ultimately, the decision became simple and I chose the afternoon class. Why? The morning classroom had a purple door and the afternoon class had an orange door. Boom. There you have the beginning of a love affair with the color orange.

The Sisterhood of the Traveling Patterns

I'm not really one who is prone to rant, however, I do tend to get my thong in a wad when I am forced to endure ineptness forced upon me by "the system".

Back in April I was first to respond to a fellow Pattern Reviewer who was giving away 60 (you read that right...SIXTY!!) Vogue patterns from the 70's and 80's in sizes 10-12, simply for the cost of shipping. "What a coup!" I thought as I made the PayPal transaction.

I did a ton of sewing in those eras and would bet money that I used to own some of those same patterns. No matter, it was going to be a treasure trove of delirium going through them with my mind being barraged with ideas, fabric choices, style changes, combinations, etc. Sounds heavenly to any sewing fanatic, right?

I've been like a kid at Christmas with excitement and anticipation of what might be in that box! Every day I stick my head in the office at my condo saying "Do I have a package?" I know the staff is now saying among themselves "that poor woman really needs to get a life."

Enter the United States Postal Service.

The patterns were shipped on May the 8th by the USPS originating in Williamstown, PA. Tracking it online here is the route thus far:

Williamstown, Pa to

Philly to

Jersey City to

Dallas (close...I'm in Houston) to

ATLANTA! (wrong direction) to

Memphis (paying respects at Graceland?? Dunno...) BACK TO

ATLANTA! (Too bad I don't live there any longer...I'd go pick them up)

To date, still no patterns. I now have my local post office on the case. And these people wonder why they are going out of business?

Okay, I feel better now. Thank you. Carry on.

Oh, I just HAD to add this addendum. I just filled out an online survey the USPS sent me about my level of customer satisfaction! I'm sure the will rue the day they hit "send" on that baby!

I Cracked the Code!

I made my first garment from BurdaStyle magazine!

At first just finding the pattern on the sheet felt like trying to find my way around Hong Kong with a map printed in Chinese. But once I focused in on the pieces that went with my shirt it was like magic...I just started seeing it!

Now I'm hooked! I've already set my sights on another one I want to make. Here's a picture from the magazine of my shirt:

And here's my review...

Pattern Description: Tie-waist blouse. The blouse appears to be two layered separates but it's the front ties that create that illusion
Pattern Sizing:
Burda sizes 36-44
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although they were scant. I found it easier to do my own thing.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Easy! Cute and different style that looks much more complicated than it is. Very easy to put together. I like the puffy little sleeves...they are so feminine. My only dislike, and it is really just more of a personal preference, I would have liked the neck scooped out a little. When I make it again I will make that change.
Fabric Used:
Rayon woven
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I lengthened the hemline by 3". I cut the back on the fold rather than with a seam as suggested. I finished the tie pieces with a rolled hem...somehow they just called for that. The pattern suggests snaps at the neckline closure. There weren't really any instructions for how to close the front so I just overlapped the two fronts and topstitched on both sides of the front tab from my desired neck opening length down to the hem. I didn't put any type of closure at the neck and like it better just left open and draping. The top goes over my head with no problem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again. I think this layered look lends itself to all sorts of possibilities. I definitely recommend this top. This is my first garment from the BurdaStyle magazine! I've never wanted to take the time to decipher the roadmap but now I'm hooked!
Conclusion:
I'm not a virgin anymore and it didn't even hurt! If you've been intimidated by the maze of pattern lines and symbols on the magazine insert, don't be! I found it all to be very logical and well thought out. I used wax paper to trace on and when a wider sheet was needed I just melted to two sheets together with a hot iron. Worked like a charm. Their markings and instructions might be on the slight side but, interestingly enough, this seemed to make things easier. If you have some level of garment construction experience you will breeze through it. Now I'm going back through all my back issues to see what I missed!

A Happy Hoodie

This Vogue 8006  hoodie is my entry in the PR Natural Fibers contest. My review of it is below the photos.

It was fun to make and is my homage to the maxi-dress of the 70's. Which, by the way, I wore then... Scroll way down to the bottom to see yours truly at Pat O'Brien's in 1972 when I wore a sexier version... But for now...fast forward MANY years...

And here is my review of this pattern:

Pattern Description: Fitted dresses A, B (semi-fitted through bust) have self-lined hood and bodice, side slits, front zipper, narrow hem and two lengths. A, B, C, D cup sizes. My comment: With the exception of the bodice, I am baffled by why Vogue describes this as a fitted dress. It is shapeless, sacky and baggy below the bodice, which is what you'd expect from a casual hoodie but they are calling it a fitted dress.
Pattern Sizing:
6-14
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Typically Vogue, fairly straitghforward. Although it was not printed in the instructions, the graphics showed topstitching along both sides of the seam going up the hood. I attempted this from both the lining side (printed fabric on mine) as well as the fabric (solid orange) side and I quickly found that whichever side I topstitched on I was not going to be happy with the result on the other side not being neatly aligned to that seam so I left that detail off.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: the cup sizes first and foremost. I probably wouldn't have given this pattern a second look were it not for that. I liked the fully lined bodice giving the inside of your garment a nice finish. The drafting on this pattern was exceptionally good, the hood and bodice went together very nicely. No dislikes!
Fabric Used:
I am entering this in the Natural Fibers contest and I decided on cotton for my fabric. For the solid colors I used Robert Kaufman Kona cotton in tangerine and curry purchased online at the Fat Quarter Shop. Last week I wrote a review on that fantastic buying experience that you can read here. The print is quilting cotton purchased locally at High Fashion. This was the dream project as far as fabrics go...good cotton is so awesome to work with. It does need a good press, though, but I'm one of those weird-os who loves to iron...lol

During my search for the perfect cotton I learned that not all Kona cottons are created equal. I read many reviews on the Kona that Joann sells citing major shrinkage and color bleeding. With the Robert Kaufman Kona I had virtually no shrinkage and no color bleed.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut a 12 D and graded out toward a 14 at the hips but ended up taking that back to a 12.

I did nip the waist in a bit to give it a little more shape.

I shortened the upper skirt portion 3". If you make the long version you will want to be sure to make your lengthen/shorten adjustment on the on the mark given for that above the waist. If you make it on the lower skirt portion, or at the hem, it will distort the proportion of that color in relation to the bodice. It think that's an important detail that should have been pointed out in the pattern somewhere.

It has been quite some time since I have inserted anything but an invisible zipper so after staring at Vogue's instructions and then the zipper package for a while I found a great tip in the Threads Sewing Guide which is poorly reproduced here. Basically, you baste your seam. Align the zipped teeth to the seam, baste or fuse in place (I used Steam-A-Seam Lite and it worked great) then on the right side lay down a piece of 1/2" Scotch tape with the seam in the center of it and then the tape provides a perfect template to topstitch around and you can see what you're doing as you go. Brilliant!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I do recommend it and I actually might make it again. My original intent for making this one was to wear to the club when I swim laps. The longer I sewed on it the more I liked it and the less I wanted to be sitting around in a wet, chlorinated swim suit on this beautiful cotton. I might make one out of a synthetic for the pool!
Conclusion:
Is it me or is the envelope for this pattern the most uninspiring thing you've ever seen? Even the model photos on BVM are dull. Like I said, the cup sizes called my name and then I saw the contest coming up, and then when I saw that the bodice and hood were lined, the wheels started turning thinking how cute this might be in some fun fabric...well, anyway, this is what was in my head... which is sometimes a scary place to be!


And now...if you've read this far you must really want to see that 1972 flashback...

Customer Service is alive and well in Manchaca, TX!

It's true! This is a great find...

First of all, I'm a native Texan and have combed this great state from the northern panhandle to the Rio Grande valley and I'd never even heard of Manchaca. Doesn't matter...The Fat Quarter Shop calls it home and that's good enough for me.

After shopping around locally and then online, I ordered Robert Kaufman Kona cotton from the FQS  to make a garment for the PR Natural Fabrics contest. Don't be fooled by the name, their selection of cotton fabrics waaaay surpasses fat quarters.

Rather than re-write my entire review you can see it here. The bottom line is I was blown away by the customer service of this internet-only shop. The owner actually personally replied (within an hour!) to an email I sent on a Sunday afternoon saying someone would follow up with me the next day. Within 36 hours I had swatches in my mailbox. Finally making my decision and placing my order on a Friday, I received the lovingly packed bundle shown above the next Monday!

If you make an occasional quilt, love cute quilting cottons for garment sewing or just love cotton...check out the Fat Quarter Shop...you won't be disappointed!

Best of PR Contest...One Last V1224

I love this pattern. You already knew I love this fabric.

So repeat both and be happy! I entered it in Pattern Review's BEST PATTERN Contest for no other reason that I was going to make it again anyway, so why not?

Side view...I love the little blouson that the back makes:

And back view:

The final words of wisdom that I have for this pattern is you MUST use non-roll elastic, especially at the neck. If not, you will get a wonky squareness like this:

Rather than a nice round neck like this:

Okay, I'm putting this pattern to bed and starting on something new. Not quite sure what it will be although I do have a great idea in mind for the NATURAL FIBER Contest. ...Stay tuned!

Wowzer!

I did it! I did it! I said that I would do it and, in fact, I did!

In time, Carrie Bradshaw's lingerie drawer will have nothing on mine...

Never in a million years did I ever think I would be making a bra. It was an absolute BLAST.

In my Academy Award speech, I must thank my PR sewing buddies Pauline (Pdiddly) and Sigrid. Sigrid lives in The Netherlands. Pauline is from the UK and we "met" on Pattern Review when we followed each others blogs. She travels to Houston from time to time for business and when she was here last we met at High Fashion Fabrics, in person this time, and I was happy to  introduce her to our fabulous fabric store. Pauline turned me on to Sigrid's blog and told me about the gorgeous bras she makes. I contacted Sigrid and her great info, emails, blog  and encouragement got me started in bra-making and the rest... as we say in Texas... is fixin' to be history!

Now, the bra that I made is totally basic and NO frills (and fits like a kid glove!!) but I believe the beauty of bra-making is going to be that...

FRILLS

are going to be just as easy as BASIC!!

I mean, how many things can you do to a bra besides change the color, laces and cup style?

But, oooh, la, la!!!  Those changes are the fun part!

Those of you who know me know that I tend to do things over and over and over. Ergo...lingerie drawer...get ready!! (matching lace thongs are next on the agenda...)

For more construction details see my Pattern Review post.

I can't wait to start getting creative with bra-making! Anyone up for a sewing bra-along?? I'll get you started!

Asian Inspired Spa Robe

My favorite robes are the little short ones you wear when you visit a spa. I can already hear all of you thanking me for not posing in my creation. My feelings are not hurt.

The inspiration for this robe came from a little excess quilting cotton that was used for the backing of  Kandy's Quilt.

AND THEN...

under my bed are two rolls of the most gorgeous mystery fabric I bought a few years ago at an estate sale. I have no idea of the content but it washed and dried perfectly, without a wrinkle and not one smidge of shrinkage. It has an Asian flair to it, as well:

I did not have much of the quilting cotton but it was JUST enough since I was envisioning the collar and a band for the sleeve out of my mystery fabric.

I don't know about you but for years I struggled with shawl collars and then I avoided them completely. No pattern I have ever used gives you any guidance except clipping to those stupid dots, which you already know you've place wrong, so you are scared to clip to them anyway! A while back I saw a great tutorial online, I wish I could remember who to give credit to but I cannot, so let it be known I take no credit except for passing it along...

So, first measure 5/8" down from the top of the shoulder on the collar facing. Draw the seam allowance across the top of the shoulder and then continue 1-1/2" beyond where the shoulder meets the neck edge.

Now draw the seam allowance along the neck edge side of the collar facing, down and through the shoulder line. Notice the black arrow pointing at how deep the seam allowance is where the two seams intersect? That is the point that you snip to in order for each of these seams to be 5/8". **Very Important: don't forget to do stay stitching at those corners before clipping. In fact, I double stitch right at the intersection.** I have found very few patterns that ever have that "clip to" dot placed correctly. If you make your own markings you will be happier. Me? I'm big on being happy...

Then make the same markings on the collar itself:

What you will end up with are very nicely squared off corner areas at each side of the back neck facing that your interfaced collar is going to fit right into:

Oh, yes! I should give a little credit to my TNT robe pattern...B3655. It's probably OOP by now but this technique will work on any shawl collar.

I'm signing off for the weekend and wishing everyone a very Happy Easter and Passover. These extraordinary sugar eggs were made by nuns which automatically makes them holy!