So long Vogue 1250...

I'm not saying I will never sew this pattern again...no, I would never put that restriction on myself! I love V1250...it's just getting the lions share of my attention, not to mention space on my blog, and the other patterns are starting to grumble. So many great patterns...so little time. What's a girl to do?

I needed a new LBD for a birthday party and whipped up this little number in a yummy rayon knit. I've decided that the fit of this dress is completely dependent on the fabric used. This is the first one I've made with a rayon knit and the bodice finally has that drapey effect below the cowl (hard to see on black but it's there) like the one on the pattern envelope shown below.

The fabulous jewelry is courtesy of the Jodie Bell estate, undoubtedly the most incredible collection of jewelry west of the Mississippi. Jodie's daughter is a BFF of mine and has generously gifted me with many of Jodie's things. I wear them proudly knowing Jodie would be pleased. Take a look at the necklace up close...I had never seen anything like it:

The accolades I received on PatternReview.com about this dress overwhelming indicate that I need just one more V1250...a LBD with sleeves like I made on the yummy cinnamon crinkle knit version!

"Falling" for Vogue 1250

Inasmuch as I have lost count of the number of weeks Houston has had temps over 100 degrees one would think that whining about Vogue 1250 not having a long sleeved version would beg the question "what is she smoking?" And yet, preparing for that first crisp, cool day sometime in October was the inspiration for this project: I want V1250 with sleeves! It has bothered me from the get-go that sleeves were not an option.

This cinnamon colored "Crinkle Polyester" knit was actually the muslin I first made for V1250 and I loved the pattern so much I moved on to make others and put this one aside unfinished. I just love the color of this fabric and yet it has always said "Fall" to me so I decided it was the perfect Muslin #2 to try out the long sleeves on!

The first thing I did was to decide if I simply wanted to extend the existing cap sleeve or re-draft a set in sleeve at the shoulder. I took the easy route since I like the look of the existing dropped shoulder cap. I went through my stash looking for a pattern that had a similar cap sleeve and that also included a long sleeved version...I decided upon Butterick 5495. 

Next, I compared the two garments I had from each of these patterns. The armscye was virtually the same on both when I layed one upon the other:

Now, I must warn any of you who are professional pattern drafters, engineers, or basically anyone who has a highly functioning left brain...what I am about to do to get from A to B might be painful for you to witness...but, hey...it worked!

I took the back pattern piece with the extended sleeve from the McCall's pattern. On top of that I put the back pattern piece from V1250 and matched up the notches at the shoulder. No magic in that formula...it just happened to look right. I placed a piece of waxed paper over the sleeve to trace on. (sorry about the glare)



M5495 by itself



With V1250 back and notches matched, draw sleeve of M5495 on to waxed paper

 Then I repeated the procedure using the front of V1250, again matching the shoulder notches. See below:

Now I had a front sleeve and a back sleeve. Being the Einstein that I am, it occurred to me that I did not want a seam going down the top of my sleeve. So I turned one sleeve over and layed them sided by side, creating a whole sleeve. A further light bulb moment alerted me to overlap these two pieces to allow for imaginary seam allowances. I think I allowed too much which will be revealed by a fix later on.

Here are the two pieces of the sleeve side by side with approximately 1.250" overlapping (5/8 X 2 although this turned out to be too much. Plain old 5/8 would have worked better.)

So, I cut out the sleeve and pin fit it to my arm and the garment. It was a little snug but it seemed to fit the dress so I was going to trust the fabric I was using to be stretchy enough:

The next step required me to put on my big girl pants because it was time to cut into my fabric. Luckily, this "Crinkle Polyester" was on the remnant table so if it was a total disaster at least it was not a financial setback. Upon laying out my cute little pattern I saw that there was negligible difference between the front and back of it so I just folded that puppy in half and placed it on the fold. I ended up with a sleeve that looked like this:

Before cutting the second sleeve I basted in the first one. I undid a little of the side seam of the dress, sewed the sleeve in flat and then re-sewed the side seam and down the sleeve. It could have used a little more room right under the arm so I would make that adjustment on the other sleeve. It is not uncomfortable and not bothersome enough to buy more fabric and cut another sleeve. One down...one to go:

  

I decided to tweak the pattern a little bit and add a little more length to the under arm so I ended up with this:

And a cut sleeve that looked like this which fit much better with the dress:

So, as the heat continues to bake and buckle our streets causing the water mains to burst I shall continue my quest for a cute Fall wardrobe that will now include V1250 with sleeves! Hope this tutorial has been an inspiration for you to try something new! Happy sewing...and stay cool...



Disappointing Vogue 1257

I was so happy making Vogue 1250 three times and was very hopeful this DKNY pattern would turn into another TNT for me but, alas, it is not to be. Two muslins later I still do not have a modified pattern to make a dress I will wear. I really feel that not only is the pattern envelope information on this dress very misleading there are some serious design/drafting issues as well.  The pattern description says: Fitted dress has bodice front extending into sleeves, armhole seam on back bodice, straight skirt with front pleats gathered into band to form drape effect, back darts.  First of all the photo on the envelope is made from a fabric that is so dark it is hard to get a good view of the waist...and granted, my envelope pic above is creased right across there, as well. The dress appears to sit somewhat above her waist but not significantly nor did the pattern description say that. So, I relied upon the line art to give me a better idea of where the waist sits. (see below) To me it looks like the dress sits at the waist. Not! Once I began tissue fitting, I discovered that the back bodice is only 14.875" long and the skirt shows it should sit 3" above the waistline. I would not have purchased this pattern knowing how high waisted it was designed to be.

The first flopped muslin I blame myself for inasmuch as I used an ITY knit with not nearly enough lengthwise stretch. What this did show, however, was that the cut of the bodice extending into and comprising the entire sleeve was drafted very poorly...not nearly enough room in the armscye and upper arm to accommodate the indicated sizing. There was enough length, however, for the arm of a Harlem Globetrotter. On the first muslin I  cut a 14 because the tissue fit was so small. So, once that one was deemed a disaster... I was off to buy a rayon/spandex fabric with plenty of stretch in both directions. By this time I am so freaked out by the sizing of the first muslin that I cut a 16 and lengthened the bodice 3". I usually cut a 12 in Vogue, sometimes a 14 depending on the style...I've never cut a 16 in my life! Gasp!  ...just sayin'.

Lengthening the front and back bodices 3" resolved the waist issue. The next issue arose when crossing the right bodice over the left. Going by the markings on the pattern the coverage afforded was scandalous. To rectify that I crossed the right bodice almost to the left waist of the dress which was tricky because it had to line up with the gathered portion on the skirt. By now I'm wondering if the BVM pattern drafter was smoking crack on his lunch hour...it's also 3 in the morning and although  I'm on a mission to make this work I turn this project into a wadder and toddle off to bed.

I did revisit the whole matter this morning and have decided to retire this pattern. After glancing through the rest of the instruction sheet I see they are telling you to add an elastic casing around the waist. Why? This is a form fitting, straight skirted dress that already has enough bulk in the front from a lapped bodice and the pleats. I decided BVM must have gotten their instructions mixed up with a pair of pull on sweatpants... 

The pattern did have one redeeming factor in that the construction of the gathered and banded pleats was interesting. The pictures in the directions were not very helpful so I took some photos (see below) of steps 14-24 which might be of some help to you if you decide to embark on this strange odyssey. I wish you better success than I had. I think of patterns the same way I do books...there are way too many good ones out there to plod through one that you're not enjoying!

Step 14

Step 15

Step 16



Step 17 (construction of the band is straightforward)



Step 24

Butterick 5466 Skirt-A-Paloosa

As an homage to my Pattern Review friend Anne, from down under, I am creating a skirt wardrobe from Butterick 5466. Take a look at Anne's fabulous collection and you will see why I am so inspired. This pattern is a simple and basic skirt pattern that with a few little nips and tucks can be made to fit like a glove. This first offering is made from a quilting cotton I had in my stash. The geranium print is just so happy! The skirt does not call for lining but I will line all of mine because it just makes for a better experience all around...if you shy away from linings try it on a simple pattern such as this...if for no other reason than the mystique of only you knowing how beautiful things are under your skirt! The lining is polyester and the lace was sold by the yard at High Fashion. Could the color be a more perfect match? Until next time...happy sewing!

Chanel worthy DKNY

My dear friend Kandy lost her mom earlier this year. Jodie Bell was a sought after interior designer here in Houston and a woman of impeccable taste and style. Kandy recently gifted me with a pair of Jodie's shoes...Chanel sling back pumps...cream with the signature quilted black toe. I will wear them with pride and in honor of Jodie and the beautiful art that she created.

The new shoes needed a dress! One befitting their elegance. I decided upon Vogue 1250, a simple Donna Karan sheath with a soft and drapey cowl neckline. This is actually the third time I have made this dress and I think it is my favorite. It is perfect for the shoes and I can't wait to wear it! I hope Jodie would be pleased with my selection...

New "Love" Fabric

Okay, feast your eyes...this is the fabric that I hid on the bottom shelf of the 50% off table at High Fashion. In fact, I hid it so well it took me 10 minutes to find it again yesterday! The colors are divine in this 100% Rayon woven and the photo does not do it justice. I bought all they had...a scan 3-3/8 yards which is exactly what I need for V8620 with the long sleeves. It's a sign! Can't you picture it in this fabric with a wide belt? I love the collar on that dress but cannot remember what it is called? Portrait? I wish my mom was still here...she always knew those things...sniff...sniff... Anyway, the collar is cut on the bias which I think will set this print off very well like the corner I have turned down. It is so HOT here...I do get a little respite when I think of sewing some fab new clothes for the cooler weather ahead... Can anyone help me with the name of this type collar?



Vogue 8630...It says updated retro to me...



Unfaithful...

I've been sewing so much lately my other hobbies have accused me of having an affair...I'm doing another version of Vogue 1250, I await the arrival of OOP Simplicity 3775 from a sewing friend in Canada and have fabulous fabric in mind for that, and will hit High Fashion with my friend Kandy today. When we were there earlier in the week I found a roll of the most gorgeous rayon print woven fabric on the 50% off table. I hid it under several rolls of ugly fabric so it would be there when I next returned! My other hobbies are right...I am cheating...

Frank Pittman, a very wise therapist in Atlanta, says in one of his books "If you question whether or not something that you do constitutes an infidelity...ask your spouse." I guess I need to speak to my other hobbies...

Sewing Restriction

I've grounded myself from sewing until I get some other things done. I'm still looking at patterns online, however, so I'm not sure how effective this punishment is. There are 2, possibly 3, Vintage Vogue patterns I am coveting. Back to work so I can sew!

Redemption of Simplicity 2364

One of the perks of having a blog is that occassionally I can get on my soapbox and rant, which I'm not really predisposed to do...so...please allow me a moment to talk about one of my pet peeves. When buying fabric at a megopolis like Joann's they many times have bad cutters...couple that with their fear of cutting an 8th of an inch over what you ask them for (I guess it comes out of their paycheck?)...you can easily end up with a wonky cut. More often than not by the time by the time  I lay it out and straighten the grain I am 3-4 inches short on one or both ends and in peril of not having enough fabric for my project. Exactly what happened  today on the above pattern. You will note from the pattern envelope shown that a sleeveless version of the shrug top is not featured. Inasmuch as I bought the fabric for this top at JOANN'S I did not have enough to cut sleeves! However, I think that making a silk purse out of a sow's ear (as my mom would have said) is called redemption. I really like this little sleeveless shrug that I ended up with! And so did everyone else at the Pinot's Palette painting party I attended tonight. However, it does not excuse a bad cut of fabric...just sayin'...

Also...a great marker for dark or black fabric is a white Conte' pastel pencil. It shows really well and brushes right off...

Vogue 1250 DKNY Dress

This dress was so stupid simple (2 pattern pieces!) but it took some mental gymnastics to make it work for me. I usually don't go for a cowl neckline as they are more conducive to an Audrey Hepburn type figure...I'm no Anna Nicole Smith but I am a little on the Marilyn Monroe side. What I ended up doing is cutting a size larger than I normally would, left a little more room in the bust and then narrowing down to a taper that actually sits on my hips creating the little draping effect that the pattern envelope shows. (Pic below) This dress is getting rave reviews on PatternReview.com...fab site by the way, if you haven't seen it you must check it out...you can find it in My Favorite Clicks...

And NOW...for the real fashion statement of this entry, check out the stockings and closed toe pumps ala Kate Middleton! I hope her fabulous fashion sense and style (even though it is mandated by the monarchy's protocol) starts a trend back to stockings! Enough of this bare-legged, smelly tanning treatment, lazy attitude towards a classic finishing touch to our wardrobe. Let's hear it ladies...does anyone agree with me?

5 Butterick 4789 Maggy London Dresses? Is This An Addiction?

Okay....I think this will be my last Maggy London twist top dress...at least for this Summer! I love, love, LOVE this pattern and have practically made a whole wardrobe of them. Check out my other 4 on an earlier post. One of the things I love about this dress is the V cut of the back. It's just fun and Summery! I first sew the back darts with a single needle and then construct the rest of the dress with a twin stretch needle including hems.

Just made it up!

I have a favorite knit little black dress that I wanted to clone. I found this fabulous fabric at High Fashion that is just rows and rows of small ruffles with an overall animal print. I bought a little over a yard and used my favorite LBD as a pattern, simply leaving a seam allowance. I actually used both selvedge edges as part of the dress. One selvedge had little points all along it (see below) so I cut a strip of this to put around the neckline to add a little flounce. The other selvedge was nice and plain with quite a bit of stretch to it so I used it to bind the armholes. Voila! Instant fabulous little brown dress! The motto here is "don't be afraid to experiment! What's the worst that can happen?"

Butterick 4789 Maggy London Dress

Hands down this is my absolute favorite pattern of the moment. Can you tell? I've only made it 4 times for myself and once for a friend! It has it all...style, comfort, flattering fit, easy to make, fun to wear and I get tons of compliments on it! And each one I've made looks completely different because of fabric choice. What's not to love? **Update** the black and white one is my 5th...I think I am finished...at least for this summer!

Five!

Butterick 5525

It is SO hot here in Houston that I am working on some clothes for Fall...I guess I think that will somehow make it cooler now! This is a knit top pattern that I lengthened into a dress. I added long darts to each side of the back to add some shaping at the waist. I felt like the design on this fabric needed a little softness so I put a lettuce leaf edge on the sleeves and hem as shown below. I like the square neckline and I don't see that design very often.

Butterick 5495

This is a cute pattern with a lot of possibilities. A friend of mine actually started this top and didn't like the way it fit so I inherited it and finished it. I typically don't wear tunic length tops but this one looks cute over leggings. I know it is some sort of animal print but, honestly, I feel like Cruella DeVille...it's sort of Dalmation-like to me! Below is the neck detail with topstitching of the front self facings and sewing together about 1-1/2" at the bottom of the V.

RL Knock-Off

What woman doesn't dream of having a beautiful dressing table to sit at while putting on her make-up? My sister saw this decadent vanity table idea in a Ralph Lauren catalog and we went about designing and creating our version of it. I must say that it is more beautiful than the one we copied. The most fun, however, was the shared sister time throughout the project.

The fabric is a nearly white heavy brocade. Here's a great tip for gathering a fabric that has some weight to it...zig zag over dental floss (non-waxed and flavorless) and use the floss as your gathering thread. It makes uniform gathers and there is no way the floss is going to break!

McCalls 5974 The Perfect Knit Dress?

Palmer/Pletsch touts this pattern as being the perfect knit dress. I might agree with that but the jury is still out on whether it is the perfect wrap dress. I really like the fabric I used on this pattern but from the picture it is hard to determine that it wraps. I think I will enjoy wearing this when the weather cools off in the fall.  Hmmmm...the perfect wrap? I think I am still in search of...anyone out there have a favorite you can recommend?

Sewing All-nighter

Last night I pulled what I call a "mother". My mom was an accomplished seamstress and was obsessed with beautiful fabric and a love for sewing. I am so happy that I inherited that gene from her. I have 3 sisters and mom used to make a lot of our clothes, especially those for special occasions. I can remember waking up in the middle of the night and hearing mom's Singer humming while she worked in the wee hours of the morning. Looking back on it that was the only time that she didn't have 4 girls, all within 6 years of each other, tugging at her skirt for one thing or another. This picture is one of my favorites of Easter dresses that mom made. I am 3 and my sister is 5.  The skirts were red with a pussy willow design, the bodices were a soft grey and the moss green sash at the waist tied all of it together. So adorable...