Saturday, November 26, 2011

A Perfect Pair of Pants!

My first advice is not to make a pair of pants the weekend after Thanksgiving! What was I thinking? That last piece of pie shows clearly in the side view...

You are looking at cornbread dressing and pecan pie...

I discovered McCall's 5239 which is a Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit pattern chocked full of great instructions for achieving a good fit. If you've never tried their fitting method I believe it is the best. For these pants I sewed View A with a few changes. I am not a fan of waistbands and all the views on this pattern have one. In fact, patterns seem to go from waistbands to elastic with not much in between. Depending on the fabric I would line them but the wrong side of this moleskin was really nice and soft so I cut facings for the waist. I did this by first pinning the darts in place:

And then using the shape of the waist to cut pieces about 2-1/2" deep and longer on each end:

I make notes on the facings so I have whatever option I want to when placing my zipper. On this pair I wanted a side zip so I cut both back and front facings on the fold. Here is the finished facing:

I had some questions from PR friends about how the pants would sit at the waist once the waistband is eliminated. I guess everyone has their preference about where their actual waist is; and how they like clothes to look and feel at the waist, for me the scenario below is perfect. I don't want anything around what appears to be my "real" waist...that feels too high to me:

And along these same lines, another thing I hate is the hook & eye process. As far as I'm concerned they are just annoying little stabbers waiting for you to lean against them and wince in pain! I've eliminated them completely at the top of my zips by sewing my facings or linings flush with the top of the zipper like so:

I think the true test of a pair of pants is how they look from the back and I think these look pretty darn good compared with other RTW in my closet.

This is rather brave of me, I think...

I will definitely use this pattern as my sloper now and a TNT for a great fitting pair of pants. So, not only am I'm hitting the grocery store tomorrow for a healthy basket I will be on the elliptical tomorrow afternoon!


  1. How funny, however I feel the same after my Sunday Roast. The pants look great and fit really well. This is the same pattern I cut my TNT pants from and have been really pleased with them - I am a fan of PP - still seriously thinking of booking the next course in May I think.

  2. i have been making my own side zipped pants this season and love them. Thanks for showing your facing instructions...and I detest the hook and eye! Seems so simple.

  3. just read your post on my blog - thanks for the tip will definitely look at the PP site - by the way am scheduled to visit Houston in February you never know we may be able to meet up :-)

  4. Great pants and thanks for the review.

  5. That zip is perfect. How I wish I could do zips like this......sigh..........

  6. Thank you so much for offer of assisting me with zips - I was thinking something along the lines of me sending you the zip and the unfinished garment and then you send it back to me looking like yours LOL!

  7. Great fit. And you are so right about the little stabbers. I like the idea of eliminating the hook and eye.

  8. Your pants look terrific. And I agree about waistbands and like your alternative. I usually just make mine very narrow.


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