A Happy Hoodie

This Vogue 8006  hoodie is my entry in the PR Natural Fibers contest. My review of it is below the photos.

It was fun to make and is my homage to the maxi-dress of the 70's. Which, by the way, I wore then... Scroll way down to the bottom to see yours truly at Pat O'Brien's in 1972 when I wore a sexier version... But for now...fast forward MANY years...

And here is my review of this pattern:

Pattern Description: Fitted dresses A, B (semi-fitted through bust) have self-lined hood and bodice, side slits, front zipper, narrow hem and two lengths. A, B, C, D cup sizes. My comment: With the exception of the bodice, I am baffled by why Vogue describes this as a fitted dress. It is shapeless, sacky and baggy below the bodice, which is what you'd expect from a casual hoodie but they are calling it a fitted dress.
Pattern Sizing:
6-14
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Typically Vogue, fairly straitghforward. Although it was not printed in the instructions, the graphics showed topstitching along both sides of the seam going up the hood. I attempted this from both the lining side (printed fabric on mine) as well as the fabric (solid orange) side and I quickly found that whichever side I topstitched on I was not going to be happy with the result on the other side not being neatly aligned to that seam so I left that detail off.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: the cup sizes first and foremost. I probably wouldn't have given this pattern a second look were it not for that. I liked the fully lined bodice giving the inside of your garment a nice finish. The drafting on this pattern was exceptionally good, the hood and bodice went together very nicely. No dislikes!
Fabric Used:
I am entering this in the Natural Fibers contest and I decided on cotton for my fabric. For the solid colors I used Robert Kaufman Kona cotton in tangerine and curry purchased online at the Fat Quarter Shop. Last week I wrote a review on that fantastic buying experience that you can read here. The print is quilting cotton purchased locally at High Fashion. This was the dream project as far as fabrics go...good cotton is so awesome to work with. It does need a good press, though, but I'm one of those weird-os who loves to iron...lol

During my search for the perfect cotton I learned that not all Kona cottons are created equal. I read many reviews on the Kona that Joann sells citing major shrinkage and color bleeding. With the Robert Kaufman Kona I had virtually no shrinkage and no color bleed.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut a 12 D and graded out toward a 14 at the hips but ended up taking that back to a 12.

I did nip the waist in a bit to give it a little more shape.

I shortened the upper skirt portion 3". If you make the long version you will want to be sure to make your lengthen/shorten adjustment on the on the mark given for that above the waist. If you make it on the lower skirt portion, or at the hem, it will distort the proportion of that color in relation to the bodice. It think that's an important detail that should have been pointed out in the pattern somewhere.

It has been quite some time since I have inserted anything but an invisible zipper so after staring at Vogue's instructions and then the zipper package for a while I found a great tip in the Threads Sewing Guide which is poorly reproduced here. Basically, you baste your seam. Align the zipped teeth to the seam, baste or fuse in place (I used Steam-A-Seam Lite and it worked great) then on the right side lay down a piece of 1/2" Scotch tape with the seam in the center of it and then the tape provides a perfect template to topstitch around and you can see what you're doing as you go. Brilliant!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I do recommend it and I actually might make it again. My original intent for making this one was to wear to the club when I swim laps. The longer I sewed on it the more I liked it and the less I wanted to be sitting around in a wet, chlorinated swim suit on this beautiful cotton. I might make one out of a synthetic for the pool!
Conclusion:
Is it me or is the envelope for this pattern the most uninspiring thing you've ever seen? Even the model photos on BVM are dull. Like I said, the cup sizes called my name and then I saw the contest coming up, and then when I saw that the bodice and hood were lined, the wheels started turning thinking how cute this might be in some fun fabric...well, anyway, this is what was in my head... which is sometimes a scary place to be!


And now...if you've read this far you must really want to see that 1972 flashback...

Customer Service is alive and well in Manchaca, TX!

It's true! This is a great find...

First of all, I'm a native Texan and have combed this great state from the northern panhandle to the Rio Grande valley and I'd never even heard of Manchaca. Doesn't matter...The Fat Quarter Shop calls it home and that's good enough for me.

After shopping around locally and then online, I ordered Robert Kaufman Kona cotton from the FQS  to make a garment for the PR Natural Fabrics contest. Don't be fooled by the name, their selection of cotton fabrics waaaay surpasses fat quarters.

Rather than re-write my entire review you can see it here. The bottom line is I was blown away by the customer service of this internet-only shop. The owner actually personally replied (within an hour!) to an email I sent on a Sunday afternoon saying someone would follow up with me the next day. Within 36 hours I had swatches in my mailbox. Finally making my decision and placing my order on a Friday, I received the lovingly packed bundle shown above the next Monday!

If you make an occasional quilt, love cute quilting cottons for garment sewing or just love cotton...check out the Fat Quarter Shop...you won't be disappointed!

Best of PR Contest...One Last V1224

I love this pattern. You already knew I love this fabric.

So repeat both and be happy! I entered it in Pattern Review's BEST PATTERN Contest for no other reason that I was going to make it again anyway, so why not?

Side view...I love the little blouson that the back makes:

And back view:

The final words of wisdom that I have for this pattern is you MUST use non-roll elastic, especially at the neck. If not, you will get a wonky squareness like this:

Rather than a nice round neck like this:

Okay, I'm putting this pattern to bed and starting on something new. Not quite sure what it will be although I do have a great idea in mind for the NATURAL FIBER Contest. ...Stay tuned!

Wowzer!

I did it! I did it! I said that I would do it and, in fact, I did!

In time, Carrie Bradshaw's lingerie drawer will have nothing on mine...

Never in a million years did I ever think I would be making a bra. It was an absolute BLAST.

In my Academy Award speech, I must thank my PR sewing buddies Pauline (Pdiddly) and Sigrid. Sigrid lives in The Netherlands. Pauline is from the UK and we "met" on Pattern Review when we followed each others blogs. She travels to Houston from time to time for business and when she was here last we met at High Fashion Fabrics, in person this time, and I was happy to  introduce her to our fabulous fabric store. Pauline turned me on to Sigrid's blog and told me about the gorgeous bras she makes. I contacted Sigrid and her great info, emails, blog  and encouragement got me started in bra-making and the rest... as we say in Texas... is fixin' to be history!

Now, the bra that I made is totally basic and NO frills (and fits like a kid glove!!) but I believe the beauty of bra-making is going to be that...

FRILLS

are going to be just as easy as BASIC!!

I mean, how many things can you do to a bra besides change the color, laces and cup style?

But, oooh, la, la!!!  Those changes are the fun part!

Those of you who know me know that I tend to do things over and over and over. Ergo...lingerie drawer...get ready!! (matching lace thongs are next on the agenda...)

For more construction details see my Pattern Review post.

I can't wait to start getting creative with bra-making! Anyone up for a sewing bra-along?? I'll get you started!

Asian Inspired Spa Robe

My favorite robes are the little short ones you wear when you visit a spa. I can already hear all of you thanking me for not posing in my creation. My feelings are not hurt.

The inspiration for this robe came from a little excess quilting cotton that was used for the backing of  Kandy's Quilt.

AND THEN...

under my bed are two rolls of the most gorgeous mystery fabric I bought a few years ago at an estate sale. I have no idea of the content but it washed and dried perfectly, without a wrinkle and not one smidge of shrinkage. It has an Asian flair to it, as well:

I did not have much of the quilting cotton but it was JUST enough since I was envisioning the collar and a band for the sleeve out of my mystery fabric.

I don't know about you but for years I struggled with shawl collars and then I avoided them completely. No pattern I have ever used gives you any guidance except clipping to those stupid dots, which you already know you've place wrong, so you are scared to clip to them anyway! A while back I saw a great tutorial online, I wish I could remember who to give credit to but I cannot, so let it be known I take no credit except for passing it along...

So, first measure 5/8" down from the top of the shoulder on the collar facing. Draw the seam allowance across the top of the shoulder and then continue 1-1/2" beyond where the shoulder meets the neck edge.

Now draw the seam allowance along the neck edge side of the collar facing, down and through the shoulder line. Notice the black arrow pointing at how deep the seam allowance is where the two seams intersect? That is the point that you snip to in order for each of these seams to be 5/8". **Very Important: don't forget to do stay stitching at those corners before clipping. In fact, I double stitch right at the intersection.** I have found very few patterns that ever have that "clip to" dot placed correctly. If you make your own markings you will be happier. Me? I'm big on being happy...

Then make the same markings on the collar itself:

What you will end up with are very nicely squared off corner areas at each side of the back neck facing that your interfaced collar is going to fit right into:

Oh, yes! I should give a little credit to my TNT robe pattern...B3655. It's probably OOP by now but this technique will work on any shawl collar.

I'm signing off for the weekend and wishing everyone a very Happy Easter and Passover. These extraordinary sugar eggs were made by nuns which automatically makes them holy!

Confessions of a Repeat Offender

It isn't often that I reveal the fact I have a rap sheet. That would be Report of Arrests and Prosecutions to you. (And you must imagine hearing that in a Morgan Freeman/Shawshank Redemption-ish sounding voice-over.)

But alas, sadly, it's true. I'm guilty of...you guessed it...

using the same pattern over and over again.

Remember last summer? It was B4789, Maggy London's crossed bodice dress for knits? I made it maybe 6 times and another 2 times for a friend. Here I am shamelessly flaunting number 5:

I can't help it. I like doing it. It makes me feel good. It makes me happy. It can become mindless, blissful sewing with very little brainpower needed. It's not hurting anyone so how can it be wrong?

And now, my friends, I must clear my conscience and tell everyone that the addiction has escalated. I am now repeating fabric as well as patterns. Remember this B4789?

I simply love this fabric. I wanted more of it....needed more of it.  I couldn't stop myself. I didn't go to High Fashion today hoping  for a chance meeting...I went there on a mission, with no shame or fear of reprisal. It's been almost a year since we first met, for heavens sake...what were the chances anyone would recognize me much less peg me for double dipping? Adrenaline coursed through my veins at the mere possibility of seeing it again. Simply stated, it was the euphoria of addiction.

I made my first pass along the knit aisle. These are all bolts I know...I'm embarrassed to say most of them I've touched intimately. No sign of my friend but I did make eye contact with another new fish and we both had that unspoken knowing...that love at first sight physical attraction that can't be denied. "Love"...ha! For the briefest of moments I felt cheap...almost tawdry but, unable to help myself, I yanked the heavy roll out of its resting place and lugged it around with me, clutching it tightly under my arm, so that no one else could flirt with it, or worse, defile it with the gleaming shears. In an offhandedly nonchalant manner, I made several more unsuccessful passes along the knits  before sheepishly taking my newest conquest to the cutting tables. The feeling of power was heady.

In afterglow, overcome by guilt at how easily I was taken in by the cunning advances of a total stranger, I felt obligated to take one last look for my heartthrob. And then something caught my eye... an empty cardboard spine whose limp posture had caused its knit cocoon to shimmy down and become hidden beneath and between the girth of the competition. Out of the bowels of darkness and despondency I grabbed the cardboard and pulled its wrapping up into the light...and there it was...

my fabric...my love:

Of course, I'll be using V1124 again for both of my fabrics. It's my "Summer Pattern 2012":

So... I have now aired my dirty laundry regarding my criminal past. And in a spirit of contrition I repent and have sought help for my addiction. They say if you admit to God and another person the exact nature of your wrongs then you have taken the first step. Does it matter that the other person is my dressform, Maggie the Cat? I think not.

A Roll in The Hague

A pedicure and a new dress! Is there anything better?

I didn't think V1224 would be for me but I love it! Boy, am I thankful for my Pattern Review friends...this pattern runs SO short, everywhere! I lengthened the bodice by 2" and the length by 3". I really like the little blouson effect in the back:

My sister and I met at Trellis on Thursday and got pedicures together. Is there anything more wonderful than a great pedi? In my next life I want to come back as one of the polish namers at OPI. They have a wonderful new orange red out called 'A Roll in The Hague' and my sister used 'A Good Mandarin is Hard to Find'. I feel so sorry for men. They will never experience how fun it is to be a girl!

Super Shirt! Just as pretty on the inside!

I just finished S2339 and have found a new TNT for a great shirt. I know...I know...you're thinking "how great could a shirt pattern be?" And...it does look sort of boring based on the pattern envelope...she looks like she is about to serve a tray of petit fours at tea:

But this really is an amazing pattern...in fit, but also construction. I made this shirt completely by machine and serger...not a single hand stitch on it, even the yoke. The inside is almost as pretty as the outside:

I've reviewed the yoke construction in detail on PR. It really is quite an amazing process. Oh...

and my skirt...

No one will be surprised that I made yet another B5466. I just loved this Ralph Lauren-esque fabric:

Okay, on to my next project...not sure what it will be...I only know that it will be...

Retro Summer Top and Pants

This fabric was love at first sight for me! It reminds me of the 70's and has all of my favorite colors in it. I thought B5216, a simple little top gathered on a tie, was the perfect accompaniment for it. I made View B but lengthened it a bit and put elastic at the waist:

I intended to wear this top belted at the waist as the orange top above but it just didn't work on me. I needed some shape through the middle. I used double fold bias tape and pressed out the center seam to make a casing. It was then the perfect width to thread 1/4" elastic through. The complexity level of this pattern is on the same scale as the drawstring duffel that most of us made at summer camp when we were 12. Sometimes I really enjoy mindless sewing where no direction is needed and I can just sort of be flying by instruments, as my mom used to say. I did take scant 1/4" seams making the tie a little wider to add a some additional bra strap coverage:

I found this fabric at Joann's. Usually I am casting dispersions at Joann's but since they were purchased a few year back by the same outfit that bought a large portion of Whole Foods, they really seem to be upgrading their fabric quality and providing a much better selection. And the attitude of the employees has improved 100%. It's a refreshing change, at least here in Houston.

The pants are made from white cotton and spandex denim and using one of  my TNT pant patterns, Sandra Betzina's V1197:

The Texas bluebonnets have started to bloom so spring is officially here! It won't be long before I can wear this cute top...the fabric just makes me happy!

Perfect Sleeve for V1250

I made this dress numerous times last summer including the one above, however, I wanted to wear this one now and it's a little too early in the year to go sleeveless. I used the sleeve from V8511 and it fit perfectly:

The dropped shoulder on V1250 is virtually the same as the pattern above:

I did find the sleeve very wide and I started narrowing it from one inch under the arm tapering down to a mark I made 2" in from the wrist seam. That slimmed the sleeve and it is tight enough to stay pushed up when I what that look.  I drafted a sleeve for V1250 last year but this one fits and feels much better. Try it...it's a good fit!

Showcasing My "Love" Fabric!

I raved about this fabric last July when I found it on the half price table at High Fashion. It is a rayon weave and I love the colors in it and wanted something that would really show it off. I pictured a long dress like one I had years ago that I loved. I searched and searched for a pattern and had no luck. Then one day I was searching on Simplicity for all patterns with cup sizes. I found 2232 which is a Khalia Ali Collection. I thought all of her patterns were plus sizes only but they actually go down to Misses 10. This sleeveless dress was very similar to what I had in mind so I tried it. I made View A without the pockets...they seemed a little house dress-ish to me. Here is the pattern envelope:

And here is my cute dress:

I love the cut in shoulders and the buttons down the front. There are two tabs at the back waist with buttons that are very hard to see because of the print ...a little easier to see on the close up:

This is a cute pattern and it was easy to put together. If you don't need smaller than a Misses 10 give it a try. I can't wait for summer to wear it. And to get some sun on my white legs!

Butterick 6466 + Love Fabric = Hurry Up Spring!

There is nothing new to say about this TNT pattern except that it is my go to pattern for a quick and simple skirt. Usually I line my skirts but this one will be like "play clothes" for the spring and summer so I just used facings. After making  a shirt from V8747 in this yummy cotton/spandex print (above) I knew I would want a skirt out of it and then the idea of a skirt out of it led to making up V8747 in white, too. (below) I love it when that happens!

I seem to be doing everything except buying fabric for my Red Dress which I am supposed to enter in a contest. Hmmmm...

Easy Breezy Summer Skirt

This was a simple skirt to put together. The fabric caught my eye at High Fashion but I think the lines of the skirt are lost because of the busy print. Don't care...I like it! It will be fun and easy to wear this summer. The fabric is a luscious Italian cotton that is so soft and wonderful. It completely called out for a rolled hem which is so super easy and fast. Below is the line drawing of the pattern:

And the cute white blouse is yet another V8747, my new love shirt. I really love the fit of that pattern and the cup sizing makes it a dream:

I need a cute new belt to pull it together. I did not do the casing for the elastic at the the waist as suggested by the pattern. I like Sandra Betzina's application of elastic that can be used when your garment is close fitting without a lot of gathering. Cut a piece of 1" elastic the exact size of your waist. Cut a 2: square of your fabric. But the ends of the elastic together and zigzag across half of the fabric square. then fold the square over the elastic and zigzag again. Now you have a circle of elastic. Divide that into 4 sections and mark with pins or a marker. Mark 4 sections around the garment. Pin the elastic to the outside of the garment and then divide those 4 sections half again into eight sections pinning the elastic all around. Then simply stretch, pull taut and sew. Turn the elastic to the inside and stretching again topstitch in place. Easy peasy. And much more comfortable than a bulky casing. The elastic will show on the inside so use black or white accordingly.   

Flirty Shirt Dress

I absolutely love it when a "hmmmm" turns into an investigation which in turn becomes a fabulously fun project and ends in the creation of something I will actually love to wear! My last post was a love affair with the shirt from VogueV8747, adorable and with a twist at the neckline that gave it some feminine softness. I planned on making another one and then I wondered "how would that shirt look lengthened and turned into a shirt dress?" I've never been drawn to shirt dresses because there is something so tailored about them and that is so not me. So I wondered, with the cute neckline on V8747, what else could I add to a shirt dress that would kick it up and notch and make it a little more girly? I already knew I needed to extend the princess lines of the blouse to create a dress so I went to my pattern stash to see what I might have on hand that would simplify that process. And then I found McCall's5523. How cute would it be for the back of the shirt dress to have one of these little flounces! Look how the lines of these 2 patterns fit together:

 It looked like the lines of both would coincide and, in fact, they did, with amazing precision:

In order to assure that the sections would all be the same length I measured the sections of the pattern that overlapped and made each overlapping section the same length. There may be more precise methods but this worked really well for me.

I added the collar to this shirt dress and felt like it still needed a little something extra so I put some flap pockets on the front:

This was a fun project and relatively simple. I look forward to getting some sun on my legs and weather a little warmer to wear my flirty shirt dress!

Impatiently waiting for spring...

Balmy Houston, TX has yet to have any kind of noticeable winter so I thought I would just start sewing for spring. I've had Vogue 8747 on my wish list for a while but I'm not sure why. I never wear blouses. I think I have might have 3 in my entire closet. I was convinced that I didn't like blouses. And then it occurred to me why. I have never been able to find a RTW blouse that fits properly. If it fit in the bust without gaposis then it was swimming around my neck and shoulders and waist. Enter custom fit patterns with cup sizes! Hello great fitting shirt, good bye pain in the a** FBA!

This shirt is adorable and I love it. Especially with the fabric I found. A cotton with 3% spandex. Perfect for this fitted shirt pattern. I can't wait to wear this with a white skirt or pants when the weather warms up. In fact, I think I'll buy some more and make a skirt to match, belt it at the hip, cute sandals and voila!

This was the first time I've made buttonholes in I can't remember when but it came back quickly. However, sewing buttons on has always been a pet peeve of mine. Then I remembered a Bernina class waaaay back and learning to sew buttons on by machine. I marked the button placements in the usual way then scotch taped a button on its mark. My buttons have 4 holes. Two would work just as well. I set my machine for its widest zig zag stitch. Using my buttonhole foot because it has a big opening I positioned the button so that the zig zag would go in one hole then cross over to the other. I used the hand wheel manually so as not to accidentally stab a button. Six or seven stitches then I turned the button for the stitch to create an X. Lastly I set my machine to stay on one hole and did 3-4 stitches to "lock". Voila...no sewing buttons on by hand!

I love this little blouse and will make it again, maybe with the collar. I like the 3/4 length sleeves. I like the band without the collar...it looks sort of Mandarin-ish. Especially with this leafy fabric. Come on spring...I want to wear this cute blouse!

When all else fails...return to your roots