Confessions of a Repeat Offender

It isn't often that I reveal the fact I have a rap sheet. That would be Report of Arrests and Prosecutions to you. (And you must imagine hearing that in a Morgan Freeman/Shawshank Redemption-ish sounding voice-over.)

But alas, sadly, it's true. I'm guilty of...you guessed it...

using the same pattern over and over again.

Remember last summer? It was B4789, Maggy London's crossed bodice dress for knits? I made it maybe 6 times and another 2 times for a friend. Here I am shamelessly flaunting number 5:

I can't help it. I like doing it. It makes me feel good. It makes me happy. It can become mindless, blissful sewing with very little brainpower needed. It's not hurting anyone so how can it be wrong?

And now, my friends, I must clear my conscience and tell everyone that the addiction has escalated. I am now repeating fabric as well as patterns. Remember this B4789?

I simply love this fabric. I wanted more of it....needed more of it.  I couldn't stop myself. I didn't go to High Fashion today hoping  for a chance meeting...I went there on a mission, with no shame or fear of reprisal. It's been almost a year since we first met, for heavens sake...what were the chances anyone would recognize me much less peg me for double dipping? Adrenaline coursed through my veins at the mere possibility of seeing it again. Simply stated, it was the euphoria of addiction.

I made my first pass along the knit aisle. These are all bolts I know...I'm embarrassed to say most of them I've touched intimately. No sign of my friend but I did make eye contact with another new fish and we both had that unspoken knowing...that love at first sight physical attraction that can't be denied. "Love"...ha! For the briefest of moments I felt cheap...almost tawdry but, unable to help myself, I yanked the heavy roll out of its resting place and lugged it around with me, clutching it tightly under my arm, so that no one else could flirt with it, or worse, defile it with the gleaming shears. In an offhandedly nonchalant manner, I made several more unsuccessful passes along the knits  before sheepishly taking my newest conquest to the cutting tables. The feeling of power was heady.

In afterglow, overcome by guilt at how easily I was taken in by the cunning advances of a total stranger, I felt obligated to take one last look for my heartthrob. And then something caught my eye... an empty cardboard spine whose limp posture had caused its knit cocoon to shimmy down and become hidden beneath and between the girth of the competition. Out of the bowels of darkness and despondency I grabbed the cardboard and pulled its wrapping up into the light...and there it was...

my fabric...my love:

Of course, I'll be using V1124 again for both of my fabrics. It's my "Summer Pattern 2012":

So... I have now aired my dirty laundry regarding my criminal past. And in a spirit of contrition I repent and have sought help for my addiction. They say if you admit to God and another person the exact nature of your wrongs then you have taken the first step. Does it matter that the other person is my dressform, Maggie the Cat? I think not.

A Roll in The Hague

A pedicure and a new dress! Is there anything better?

I didn't think V1224 would be for me but I love it! Boy, am I thankful for my Pattern Review friends...this pattern runs SO short, everywhere! I lengthened the bodice by 2" and the length by 3". I really like the little blouson effect in the back:

My sister and I met at Trellis on Thursday and got pedicures together. Is there anything more wonderful than a great pedi? In my next life I want to come back as one of the polish namers at OPI. They have a wonderful new orange red out called 'A Roll in The Hague' and my sister used 'A Good Mandarin is Hard to Find'. I feel so sorry for men. They will never experience how fun it is to be a girl!

Super Shirt! Just as pretty on the inside!

I just finished S2339 and have found a new TNT for a great shirt. I know...I know...you're thinking "how great could a shirt pattern be?" And...it does look sort of boring based on the pattern envelope...she looks like she is about to serve a tray of petit fours at tea:

But this really is an amazing pattern...in fit, but also construction. I made this shirt completely by machine and serger...not a single hand stitch on it, even the yoke. The inside is almost as pretty as the outside:

I've reviewed the yoke construction in detail on PR. It really is quite an amazing process. Oh...

and my skirt...

No one will be surprised that I made yet another B5466. I just loved this Ralph Lauren-esque fabric:

Okay, on to my next project...not sure what it will be...I only know that it will be...

Retro Summer Top and Pants

This fabric was love at first sight for me! It reminds me of the 70's and has all of my favorite colors in it. I thought B5216, a simple little top gathered on a tie, was the perfect accompaniment for it. I made View B but lengthened it a bit and put elastic at the waist:

I intended to wear this top belted at the waist as the orange top above but it just didn't work on me. I needed some shape through the middle. I used double fold bias tape and pressed out the center seam to make a casing. It was then the perfect width to thread 1/4" elastic through. The complexity level of this pattern is on the same scale as the drawstring duffel that most of us made at summer camp when we were 12. Sometimes I really enjoy mindless sewing where no direction is needed and I can just sort of be flying by instruments, as my mom used to say. I did take scant 1/4" seams making the tie a little wider to add a some additional bra strap coverage:

I found this fabric at Joann's. Usually I am casting dispersions at Joann's but since they were purchased a few year back by the same outfit that bought a large portion of Whole Foods, they really seem to be upgrading their fabric quality and providing a much better selection. And the attitude of the employees has improved 100%. It's a refreshing change, at least here in Houston.

The pants are made from white cotton and spandex denim and using one of  my TNT pant patterns, Sandra Betzina's V1197:

The Texas bluebonnets have started to bloom so spring is officially here! It won't be long before I can wear this cute top...the fabric just makes me happy!

Perfect Sleeve for V1250

I made this dress numerous times last summer including the one above, however, I wanted to wear this one now and it's a little too early in the year to go sleeveless. I used the sleeve from V8511 and it fit perfectly:

The dropped shoulder on V1250 is virtually the same as the pattern above:

I did find the sleeve very wide and I started narrowing it from one inch under the arm tapering down to a mark I made 2" in from the wrist seam. That slimmed the sleeve and it is tight enough to stay pushed up when I what that look.  I drafted a sleeve for V1250 last year but this one fits and feels much better. Try it...it's a good fit!

Showcasing My "Love" Fabric!

I raved about this fabric last July when I found it on the half price table at High Fashion. It is a rayon weave and I love the colors in it and wanted something that would really show it off. I pictured a long dress like one I had years ago that I loved. I searched and searched for a pattern and had no luck. Then one day I was searching on Simplicity for all patterns with cup sizes. I found 2232 which is a Khalia Ali Collection. I thought all of her patterns were plus sizes only but they actually go down to Misses 10. This sleeveless dress was very similar to what I had in mind so I tried it. I made View A without the pockets...they seemed a little house dress-ish to me. Here is the pattern envelope:

And here is my cute dress:

I love the cut in shoulders and the buttons down the front. There are two tabs at the back waist with buttons that are very hard to see because of the print ...a little easier to see on the close up:

This is a cute pattern and it was easy to put together. If you don't need smaller than a Misses 10 give it a try. I can't wait for summer to wear it. And to get some sun on my white legs!

Butterick 6466 + Love Fabric = Hurry Up Spring!

There is nothing new to say about this TNT pattern except that it is my go to pattern for a quick and simple skirt. Usually I line my skirts but this one will be like "play clothes" for the spring and summer so I just used facings. After making  a shirt from V8747 in this yummy cotton/spandex print (above) I knew I would want a skirt out of it and then the idea of a skirt out of it led to making up V8747 in white, too. (below) I love it when that happens!

I seem to be doing everything except buying fabric for my Red Dress which I am supposed to enter in a contest. Hmmmm...

Easy Breezy Summer Skirt

This was a simple skirt to put together. The fabric caught my eye at High Fashion but I think the lines of the skirt are lost because of the busy print. Don't care...I like it! It will be fun and easy to wear this summer. The fabric is a luscious Italian cotton that is so soft and wonderful. It completely called out for a rolled hem which is so super easy and fast. Below is the line drawing of the pattern:

And the cute white blouse is yet another V8747, my new love shirt. I really love the fit of that pattern and the cup sizing makes it a dream:

I need a cute new belt to pull it together. I did not do the casing for the elastic at the the waist as suggested by the pattern. I like Sandra Betzina's application of elastic that can be used when your garment is close fitting without a lot of gathering. Cut a piece of 1" elastic the exact size of your waist. Cut a 2: square of your fabric. But the ends of the elastic together and zigzag across half of the fabric square. then fold the square over the elastic and zigzag again. Now you have a circle of elastic. Divide that into 4 sections and mark with pins or a marker. Mark 4 sections around the garment. Pin the elastic to the outside of the garment and then divide those 4 sections half again into eight sections pinning the elastic all around. Then simply stretch, pull taut and sew. Turn the elastic to the inside and stretching again topstitch in place. Easy peasy. And much more comfortable than a bulky casing. The elastic will show on the inside so use black or white accordingly.   

Flirty Shirt Dress

I absolutely love it when a "hmmmm" turns into an investigation which in turn becomes a fabulously fun project and ends in the creation of something I will actually love to wear! My last post was a love affair with the shirt from VogueV8747, adorable and with a twist at the neckline that gave it some feminine softness. I planned on making another one and then I wondered "how would that shirt look lengthened and turned into a shirt dress?" I've never been drawn to shirt dresses because there is something so tailored about them and that is so not me. So I wondered, with the cute neckline on V8747, what else could I add to a shirt dress that would kick it up and notch and make it a little more girly? I already knew I needed to extend the princess lines of the blouse to create a dress so I went to my pattern stash to see what I might have on hand that would simplify that process. And then I found McCall's5523. How cute would it be for the back of the shirt dress to have one of these little flounces! Look how the lines of these 2 patterns fit together:

 It looked like the lines of both would coincide and, in fact, they did, with amazing precision:

In order to assure that the sections would all be the same length I measured the sections of the pattern that overlapped and made each overlapping section the same length. There may be more precise methods but this worked really well for me.

I added the collar to this shirt dress and felt like it still needed a little something extra so I put some flap pockets on the front:

This was a fun project and relatively simple. I look forward to getting some sun on my legs and weather a little warmer to wear my flirty shirt dress!

Impatiently waiting for spring...

Balmy Houston, TX has yet to have any kind of noticeable winter so I thought I would just start sewing for spring. I've had Vogue 8747 on my wish list for a while but I'm not sure why. I never wear blouses. I think I have might have 3 in my entire closet. I was convinced that I didn't like blouses. And then it occurred to me why. I have never been able to find a RTW blouse that fits properly. If it fit in the bust without gaposis then it was swimming around my neck and shoulders and waist. Enter custom fit patterns with cup sizes! Hello great fitting shirt, good bye pain in the a** FBA!

This shirt is adorable and I love it. Especially with the fabric I found. A cotton with 3% spandex. Perfect for this fitted shirt pattern. I can't wait to wear this with a white skirt or pants when the weather warms up. In fact, I think I'll buy some more and make a skirt to match, belt it at the hip, cute sandals and voila!

This was the first time I've made buttonholes in I can't remember when but it came back quickly. However, sewing buttons on has always been a pet peeve of mine. Then I remembered a Bernina class waaaay back and learning to sew buttons on by machine. I marked the button placements in the usual way then scotch taped a button on its mark. My buttons have 4 holes. Two would work just as well. I set my machine for its widest zig zag stitch. Using my buttonhole foot because it has a big opening I positioned the button so that the zig zag would go in one hole then cross over to the other. I used the hand wheel manually so as not to accidentally stab a button. Six or seven stitches then I turned the button for the stitch to create an X. Lastly I set my machine to stay on one hole and did 3-4 stitches to "lock". Voila...no sewing buttons on by hand!

I love this little blouse and will make it again, maybe with the collar. I like the 3/4 length sleeves. I like the band without the collar...it looks sort of Mandarin-ish. Especially with this leafy fabric. Come on spring...I want to wear this cute blouse!

When all else fails...return to your roots

Whoo-hoo! Who knew?! Vogue 1197 is Great for Workout Pants!

On the eve of a monumental birthday tomorrow, the last one in my 50's (gasp...I have no idea how it happened) I thought it apropos that I review something a little on the healthy side while I sip wine. I've been steaming ever since having recently paid $70 for a pair of Nike running pants. That's ludicrous! I had to revolt! They end up being laundered 2-3 times a week and get faded out in no time. So... I decided I needed to get creative. Last weekend I made the cute pants from Vogue 1197, actually, almost leggings... because I pegged the ankles in a lot more than the pattern called for... see below if you missed it the first time. The whole time I was making them I was thinking "this pattern might make cute workout pants!" The waist is especially comfortable with 1" elastic that makes a nice, flat band that I thought would be perfect for working out:

So...I ran downtown to High Fashion this week and picked up 1-1/4 yards of black polyester knit, sort of a mid-weight... not too heavy but solid enough not to be see-through. Eureka! I was right! The only change I made was to cut the lower legs and ankles as the pattern indicated so that they would top my shoes properly. I don't know about y'all, but I consider myself somewhat tall... 5'6"... and every pair of workout pants I buy is long enough for a 6' tall woman... and I haven't seen many of those lately...even in Texas! No more! Now I have the perfect length. In any event, I am ever so excited about my pants and christened them on the elliptical today...love them...

These pants might be Garment 1 of a line of workout clothes that is noodling around in my brain. I'm so sick of manly looking workout clothes simply cut smaller for women and dyed some gawd-awful color that's supposed to be feminine. Yuck. And how many workout tops or jackets can you find that cover your butt? If I need to run an errand or run by the grocery before or after working out...I want my butt covered. Call me an old fart... it's okay... tomorrow I will be...lol ;)

Besos to all my PR and Blog friends!

Shhhhhh... Don't Tell Anybody... These are Pull-on Pants!!

I just zipped up the pants from Vogue 1197...and they have NO zipper! I had already made the cute tunic from this pattern and have continued to be intrigued by the simplicity (no pun) of the pants. One (1) pattern piece! Inseam and crotch seam and that's it. Adorable vent at the ankle and an elastic waist with no gathering that fits FLAT at the waist:

Now, in order to get the pegged leg at the ankle I graded down to a size A from 14" above my ankle down:

You can then fold up and check your angles:

I will be making these babies by the dozens! Easy peasy and cute! I'm even going to make some to work out in...perfect for yoga!

My Palette is Calling

Happy New Year! I am so happy to welcome in 2012! I can sense that there are good things in store for all of us this year.

Since returning to sewing last spring I have been consumed with all things fabric and style. However, after reading of the continuing education offerings coming up this spring at Rice University's Glasscock School, my right brain is urging me to dust off my art supplies and take a class called Fauves in the Galleries, Drawing with Expressive Color. The word "fauves" translates as "wild beasts" and was the name given to a group of French impressionist painters who, in the early 20th century, began a movement characterized by the use of vibrant, vivid and expressionistic color such as Matisse used in the portrait above and Andre Derain's almost Van Gogh like style shown below:

This class is being taught by my friend and fellow artist Kathryn "Kitty" Klauber, a most talented portrait artist, teacher, art historian and lecturer. The majority of the classes meet each week at one of 3 of Houston's world class art museums and we will actually draw using masterpieces as subject matter while learning the history of color theory and its Fauvist application.

Not to worry! I will not be forsaking my sewing projects. Since returning to my love of sewing last May I have not purchased one piece of RTW clothing. I am curious to see how far this trend can last!

Comfy, Cozy Christmas Robe

What is yummier than a soft, flannel robe? I've had Butterick 3655 forever and have made several short spa length robes but not a full length one. I envisioned a soft buttery cream color with a plaid cut on the diagonal for the shawl collar and cuffs. Nothing is more frustrating than going to the fabric store with a the perfect creation in your head and then not being able to find the exact fabric. A Christmas angel was on my shoulder! The bolts of flannel practically attacked me as I wandered down the aisle.

Since the flannels were of different weight I washed and dried them both before cutting out. Softer and yummier than ever, I laid out my pattern and cut away. I did take some care matching the plaid, especially on the collar. Inasmuch as this was not an even plaid I cut the collars with a single layer of fabric. I placed the pattern, cut one piece, then turned that piece over, laid it on the fabric and matched the plaid of the cut piece to the remaining fabric. Easy peasy. I did buy a little extra fabric for matching. The cuffs I wasn't as careful with and they look fine.

Three things the pattern doesn't tell you to do so I will tell you. After pressing the shawl collar I topstitched around the edge to give it a finished look and also to keep it from rolling after I wash it. Shown here:

Another thing I did was to sew the facing down from the shoulder all the way to the hem. It's a wide facing and if it isn't sewn down it's just this flapping thing you will always be fiddling with. I had it flapping around on one of the short spa robes I made and one day said "Why am I always fiddling with this thing? Sew the damn thing down." It made all the difference in the world! Here is approximately where I'm talking about:

Lastly, I cut 4 plaid cuffs instead of two. That way there was a nicely finished side when the cuff is rolled up with plaid on both sides.

Here's the pattern...I'm not sure it's still in print but I'm sure there are others that are the exact same robe...it's a very classic style:

I will be making an exact replica of this robe. My sister saw it and wants one for Christmas. Let's see, today is December 15th...no problem!

A Perfect Pair of Pants!

My first advice is not to make a pair of pants the weekend after Thanksgiving! What was I thinking? That last piece of pie shows clearly in the side view...



You are looking at cornbread dressing and pecan pie...

I discovered McCall's 5239 which is a Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit pattern chocked full of great instructions for achieving a good fit. If you've never tried their fitting method I believe it is the best. For these pants I sewed View A with a few changes. I am not a fan of waistbands and all the views on this pattern have one. In fact, patterns seem to go from waistbands to elastic with not much in between. Depending on the fabric I would line them but the wrong side of this moleskin was really nice and soft so I cut facings for the waist. I did this by first pinning the darts in place:

And then using the shape of the waist to cut pieces about 2-1/2" deep and longer on each end:

I make notes on the facings so I have whatever option I want to when placing my zipper. On this pair I wanted a side zip so I cut both back and front facings on the fold. Here is the finished facing:

I had some questions from PR friends about how the pants would sit at the waist once the waistband is eliminated. I guess everyone has their preference about where their actual waist is; and how they like clothes to look and feel at the waist, for me the scenario below is perfect. I don't want anything around what appears to be my "real" waist...that feels too high to me:

And along these same lines, another thing I hate is the hook & eye process. As far as I'm concerned they are just annoying little stabbers waiting for you to lean against them and wince in pain! I've eliminated them completely at the top of my zips by sewing my facings or linings flush with the top of the zipper like so:

I think the true test of a pair of pants is how they look from the back and I think these look pretty darn good compared with other RTW in my closet.



This is rather brave of me, I think...

I will definitely use this pattern as my sloper now and a TNT for a great fitting pair of pants. So, not only am I'm hitting the grocery store tomorrow for a healthy basket I will be on the elliptical tomorrow afternoon!